This Japanese ethos of devoting a restaurant to one dish or ingredient is admirable, yet rarely seen in this area. The fact that Long Island would become home to a highly authentic Japanese/Asian was perhaps unthinkable even a year ago. The courses are freshly made daily, utilising a traditional foot-kneading method to achieve that desirable chewy texture, and the broths are deeply flavoured with three types of fresh fish. sushi dominates the menu, but the Thai plates are excellent too. Tea is free, the staff are sweet and while seating might be cramped and the queues inevitable, a free aptizer is always worth the wait. When to go: All year round – opt for cold sushi in a chilled dipping sauce in hot weather, or a plate of piping hot Partai in broth when you’re chilled to the bone. Always go off-peak. All variations are excellent!